Let me show you what I’m currently using day to day, why I use it and what I genuinely think is worth having. But don’t take this as a list of everything you need to start carp fishing — it isn’t.
Further down the page, I’ll show you what you can realistically start with, what you actually need depending on how you want to fish, and the things you’ll often be told you need but really don’t. Your setup should always suit what you can afford. There’s some fantastic fishing gear out there without having to pay over the odds, and you can build your setup as you go.
The below Tackle is in the order you need to be connecting them on your line.
Korda Kaizen Green. Carp fishing can be a slow game, so personally, I’d recommend starting with two rods if your budget allows. It gives you more options and, quite simply, more chances of putting a fish on the bank. I recently bought these as an upgrade from the rods I’ll show further down. They’re 12ft, 3.5lb test curve, which gives me plenty of power for the different waters without feeling like I’ll need to upgrade again anytime soon. If you’re starting out and would rather buy once than find yourself replacing your rods a few months down the line, these are a great option. They’re well established within the carp fishing community for being a rod you can stick with as your fishing progresses. They feel great to use and fold down into two sections, fitting perfectly in my Preston holdall. These will set you back around £107 per rod, however I will show you a more affordable option further down the page.
Shimano XTE Ultegra 14000. I have to be honest, although I had some great reels which I’ll show below, these would normally set you back around £160 each from a shop. I managed to pick up all three after a one-off £10 flutter on a carp competition site. I did prefer the baitrunner option because of the line release feature, but the spool on these makes it very quick to switch between locking the line and allowing a fish to take line. They’re heavy, but feel durable and built to handle whatever conditions I’m likely to fish in. Like the rods, they’re something I don’t expect to need to upgrade anytime soon.
Korda Fast Sinking Mono, 20lb. A lighter line is perfectly fine when starting out, and the right choice really depends on how and where you want to fish. For my bottom-feeding setup, I prefer a fast-sinking line as it helps keep everything pinned down. I’ve gone with 20lb mainly because I’d rather have that extra bit of strength when targeting bigger fish and reduce the chance of losing one. For me, breaking a line and having to start again is the worst possible outcome, so I’d rather go heavier from the start.
Korda Dark Matter Nano Tubing. I use around 30–40cm of tubing, cutting it from the 2m length supplied. It helps keep the line pinned down against the lakebed and follows the contours of the bottom thanks to the tungsten it contains. The Nano version is also thinner and more supple than the standard Dark Matter tubing, which helps reduce drag when casting. It’s another bit of kit I use as part of my bottom-feeding setup, but certainly not something I’d say you need when starting out.
Korda Hybrid Tail Rubber. This creates a neat, streamlined connection between the tubing and inline lead, helping to keep everything together and reduce the chance of tangles.
Inline Leads, 3oz. My choice is 3oz, although the right weight will depend on the distance you’re fishing, conditions and how well you need to hold the lead in place. For anyone starting out, an inline lead is a simple option, but always check the fishery rules first. Many fisheries require free-running rigs, meaning the lead needs to be able to slide freely on the line so a fish can’t become tethered to a fixed lead if the mainline breaks.
Guru Speed Beads. By far the best bit of kit I’ve come across for attaching and changing hooklinks. I’ve tried similar ideas from other brands, but so far the Guru ones are the clear winner for me. The rubber cover sits over the quick-change swivel and keeps the hooklink connection tucked away, whereas I found some other brands didn’t cover the connection as well. They’re strong, simple to use and I’ve never had an issue with them so far.
Korda BASIX Ready Tied Hair Rigs. I use the size 8, which is designed around a 12mm hookbait. These are one of the easiest parts of my setup because they come ready tied, so there’s no need to start learning how to tie your own rigs straight away. They use a BASIX Wide Gape hook with coated hooklink and an anti-tangle sleeve, and each pack comes with hair stops and Extenda Stops if you want to change the hookbait size. For someone starting out, I’d much rather use something like this and concentrate on learning to find and catch fish than worry about tying complicated rigs.
Preston Innovations Bait Needle & Disgorger. When using hair rigs, a baiting needle is essential for threading your bait onto the hair. I’ve found the Preston Innovations one particularly useful as it doubles up as a disgorger too, which can be used to help remove a hook when it’s difficult to reach safely. I’d also keep a couple of cheaper baiting needles in the tackle box, they’re small and easy to lose and having a spare can save a lot of hassle during a session.
Sonik Landing Net, 42 Inch. A landing net is an absolute must. Fishing for bigger carp or venue’s that hold them will require you to have a net of a minimum 42 inch arms.
And that’s it — above you have my exact rod setup. Before moving on to some more affordable alternatives to help you get started, I’ll show you the rest of the equipment I use. You can obviously decide for yourself what you want to use and what suits your fishing.
Preston Innovations has always been my go-to for design, looks and durability. I also have a slight need for everything to match, which probably doesn’t help!
Preston Innovations 4 Rod Holdall. You’ll need something to carry and protect your rods, and this holds up to four. For me, I only ever have two rods inside, already set up and ready to go, but having the extra space is useful if you ever want to carry more. It keeps everything together and protected on the journey from the car to the bank.
Leeda Rogue 3-in-1 Rod Pod. Your rod pod doesn’t need to be pushed into the ground, and with a free-spool or baitrunner function your reel can allow a carp to take line without pulling the pod around. This one is sturdy, easy to set up and gives you somewhere secure to position your rods and alarms. You’ll just need to add butt rests for the rear of the rods.
JRC Radar DR Alarm Set. A reliable bite alarm is essential, but don’t be fooled by the huge price tags. When I bought these they were around £80; the same set is currently closer to £110. I recently bought my son his first alarm for £15 and it worked perfectly well. They’re all essentially doing the same job unless you want extra features, such as sending notifications to your phone when you get a run — which I definitely don’t! This set of three also comes with a receiver that you can carry with you, which comes in handy if, like me, your son is fishing the third rod on the peg next door and you want to know when he’s got a runner.
Preston Innovations Bait Bag. I use probably all of the Preston holdalls for carrying my pegside essentials, other than the cool box — I still prefer my supermarket-bought cool box as a cheaper option, and I don’t see an expensive one as a necessity, however nice it admittedly looks. This bait bag is worth a mention though. It’s insulated to help keep your bait cool on warmer days and is a great option for taking a variety of bait with you without worrying about it spoiling.
NGT Deluxe Cradle with Adjustable Legs & Top Cover. A suitable unhooking mat is essential for looking after your catch, and although a smaller mat will do the job, once you start landing larger carp I much prefer using a cradle. This one sits raised off the ground, has adjustable legs for uneven banks and a soft, waterproof base. The sides and cover also give you a more secure place to keep an unsettled fish while you remove the hook and get ready for a photo.
Preston Feeder Chair. Although it’s called a feeder chair, at the end of the day, it’s still a chair. I’ve got other chairs that are more comfortable for sitting in for long periods, particularly when you’re doing this style of fishing, but for practicality, this is my go-to. The built-in table is brilliant for keeping your bait close at hand, along with ready-made rigs and all the little accessories you need when making changes. When you bring the line in to change your rig or bait, the rod rests also give you somewhere to safely rest the rod while you make the adjustment before casting back out. It’s those little practical features that make a difference. It might not be the most comfortable fishing chair I own, but for feeder fishing, it’s easily the most useful.
Finally, first aid spray. This is one item you’ll want to have from the very beginning, as most commercial fisheries will require you to carry it and use it on the fish where necessary after unhooking. It’s designed to treat small hook wounds and abrasions and help reduce the risk of infection. It’s inexpensive, takes up virtually no room in your tackle, and is one of those essentials you should never be without when carp fishing.
